FranÃÆ'§ois Lesage (March 31, 1929 - December 1, 2011) is a French embroiderer couture . Lesage is globally known in the art of embroidery and works for the greatest fashion and haute couture homes. His atelier is now part of Chanel through its subsidiary, Paraffection.
Video François Lesage
​​â € <â € << span id = "Awal_life"> Early life and background
Lesage, of Norman, is the son of Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage. He has an older brother, Jean-Louis, and twin brother, Christiane. In 1924, Lesage's parents took over Michonet's repair shop. The workshop, founded in 1858, is known for working with Paris theater costume designers and producing special orders for Napoleon III courts. Atelier provides the most famous figures in Paris couture, from Worth to Paquin and Madeleine Vionnet. Albert Lesage's first career was as a broker in international trade. He was taken prisoner during World War I and started a new life in Chicago, where he was hired as director-designer of the women's clothing department at Marshall Field's in 1919. Returning to Paris three years later, Albert joined Michonet (who sought his successor). Marie-Louise is the assistant in charge of embroidery for Madeleine Vionnet. She and Albert meet at Michonet's, where Yo (when she is nicknamed) is sent to keep an eye on orders from tailors. When they took over the Michonet business, the name was changed to Albert Lesage et Cie. The new company diversified, developing its own collection of accessories and print fabrics. Albert encouraged his son to serve an apprentice by his side. Although he inherited his father's gift for drawing, FranÃÆ'§ois was a talented dye like his mother. After the end of World War II, he opened a studio on Sunset Boulevard in 1948. Lesage settled in Hollywood and created embroidery for the couturiers of the studios. Albert's death a year later disrupted his plans, and he returned to France at the age of 20 to join his mother.
Lesage continues to expand its sample collection. Under his leadership, the maison became the favorite sower of many fashion houses. "Embroidery is for haute couture what fireworks to Bastille Day" is a saying that Lesage likes to repeat, summing up his philosophy about craft. Her courage and imagination gradually opened the doors of international fashion, and American, Italian and Japanese designers took advantage of her talents. In 1987, a series of embroidery accessories were revived and sold at the Schiaparelli boutique in Place VendÃÆ''me.
Maps François Lesage
Maison Lesage
In Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles, Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage expanded their catalog with the avant-garde motif sought by a fashion customer fostered by the arts. One, Elsa Schiaparelli, became a loyal customer and began ordering embroidery inspired by the circus, astrology and maritime world in 1936. Bolero ("Chevaux Savants" with embroidered horses, from the summer collection of 1938), robes embroidered with sunshine, and gold sequins from the following winter highlights the collaboration between designers and craftsmen. Until he closed down in 1954, Elsa Schiaparelli gave Lesage all his embroidery work. Albert Lesage invented remarkable material: Murano glass for small flowers and semi-precious stones imitation, such as lapis lazuli, jade, turquoise with black webbed pattern, artificial stone, gravel and cabochons. He destroys the sequins of gelatin to give them the appearance of hammered coins, a combination of chenille and mink, and using metal knives and fish scales.
FranÃÆ'§ois collaborated with Pierre Balmain, Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior, and Jacques Fath, Jacques Heim, Robert Piguet, Jacques Griffe, Jean DessÃÆ'¨s, Hubert de Givenchy, GrÃÆ'¨s, Jean-Louis Scherrer and Marc Bohan (at Jean Patou) called on Maison Lesage. Like Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent worked only with FranÃÆ'§ois Lesage after they met in 1963; Their collaboration lasted for 44 years.
The most famous are the jackets with Vincent Van Gogh's Irises and Sunflowers for the summer collection of 1988, each requiring 600 hours of work. The iris jacket is made with 250,000 sequins in 22 colors, 200,000 beads and 250 meters (270) ribbons.
The 1980s began an international collaborative relationship with Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, and Bill Blass. Karl Lagerfeld, who had just arrived at Chanel in France, started a professional relationship with Lesage in 1983. For Lagerfeld, Lesage was inspired by Boulle furniture and Coromandel Coco Chanel panels. Chanel never wanted to work with Lesage, as Schiaparelli was his rival.
Lesage Archive is a source of inspiration for designers. The Vionnet sample is desired by Azzedine AlaÃÆ'¯a, for Dior by Galliano, and by Lagerfeld for Chanel. Each time, Lesage told them: "This is Vionnet.
Claude Montana at Lanvin, John Galliano for Dior, Thierry Mugler, Marc Jacobs (in Louis Vuitton) and Jean-Paul Gaultier asking Lesage and his embroiderers. Lesage creations include a leather-panther dress, embroidered with tubes in a cream gradient from brown to winter collection Jean Paul Gaultier 1998. A loyal customer and friend, Christian Lacroix has never stopped calling Maison Lesage : "It was he who gave me a taste for embroidery, he was my couture godfather." Lesage embroidered a "black tide" dress as a gift for young designer Christian Le Drezen, who died in 2003. In the dress, made with bird feathers, granite shells and shell, Lesage wants to commemorate the ecological disaster caused by tanker oil > Erika on the coast of Brittany.
Although fashion is an important part of Lesage's work, the embroidery atelier also undertakes special orders. In 1997, for World Youth Day in France, Lesage embroidered the golfer and assistant of Pope John Paul II. Roman Polanski and Erik Orsenna asked him to embroider l'habit vert for their induction in 1999 to the French Academy. Jean-Loup Dabadie did the same in 2008, and so did Simone Veil and Dominique Bona after that.
Awards and acknowledgments
Lesage was celebrated in the 1988 monograph, "Haute Couture Embroidery: The Art of Lesage" by Palmer White. An exhibition rewards his talents at Palais Galliera in Paris and the Institute of Fashion Technology in New York (1987), the Fashion Foundation of Tokyo (1989) and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (1991). Lesage received many awards: the Regional Grand Prix for Arts Craftsmanship, the Medal of the City of Paris in 1984 and the Knight of the Order of the Arts et MÃÆ' © tiers (1985). He received the Grand Prix de la Crà © ation from the City of Paris (1989). In 1994 Lesage was appointed Knight in the Order of the Legion of Honor, and promoted to the rank of Officer in 2007. He received the rank of Commander in Order of Arts and Letters (2003). The craft industry (the Mà © Ã… © tier) named it Master of the Art in November 2011, a few weeks before his death.
References
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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